Buying a used boat? What you should know

1) Engine & Mechanical Systems:

  • What type of engine does the boat have?

    • Inquire about the make, model, and horsepower.

    • Does it have an outboard engine, inboard/outboard or stearn drive, or an inboard engine. Each type of engine has its pros and cons and depends on how you are using the boat and your personal preferences. A stearn drive means the engine is inside the hull of the boat and the drive is outside, thus inboard/outboard reference.

    • If you are buying a stearn drive boat you might want to ask about the bellows. For any boat more than 7years old you should be asking about the condition of the bellows.

    • More horsepower helps when skiing and tubing but it also means you will consumer more gas.

    • If your boat is underpowered relative to the size of the boat then it will feel sluggish and slow to get up on plane.

  • How many engine hours are on the boat?

    • This is a critical factor in determining the engine's condition.  Price should reflect the number of hours on the engine. Think of this like a car but 1000 hours on a boat is more like 100,000 miles on a car.

  • Have there been any engine repairs or rebuilds?

    • If so, get specifics on the work performed.

  • How is the fuel system?

    • Ask about the condition of the fuel lines, tank, and any other fuel-related components.  

  • How are the electrical and boat safety systems?

    • Check the batteries, radio, depth finders, and GPS or navigation displays.

    • Check the blowers (with an inboard engine), bilge pumps, trim guage/drive and any other electrical components.

       

2. Hull & Structure:

  • Was the boat kept in salt water or fresh water?

    • Boats only used in freshwater (lakes) tend to hold their value better and tend to be in better condition due to reduced corrosion from salt.

    • Also, if a boat is from the north it was probably not exposed to the weather as much due to the shorter season. The vinyl and canvas will likely be in better condition due to less time in the sun. Of course, there are always exceptions. If a boat was stored in dry-dock storage or in a covered facility for example.

  • Has the hull ever been repaired?

    • If so, inquire about the nature and extent of the repairs.

  • Are there any signs of osmosis or blisters?

    • These are common issues with fiberglass hulls.

  • How is the gelcoat?

    • Check for any scratches, cracks, chips, dock rash, or fading.

    • Minor blemishes can be buffed out and waxing restores a nice shine to any boat that has had minor oxidation to the hull gelcoat.

  • Are there any soft spots in the deck or transom?

    • This can indicate structural issues.

3. Equipment & Accessories:

  • What equipment is included with the boat?

    • This may include trailers, anchors, ropes, life jackets, safety equipment, and electronics. All of these extras can add up to at least several hundred dollars.

  • Are any of the accessories included in the sale price?

    • If not, negotiate the price accordingly.

4. Boat History & Maintenance:

  • How long have you owned the boat?

    • This gives you an idea of the seller's familiarity with the vessel.

  • How often was the boat used?

    • Frequent use might indicate more wear and tear, but infrequent use could suggest potential storage issues.

    • Boats typically have an engine hour meter on the dash or someplace near the engine and the seller should have this information. In the NorthEast a boat gets around 75-100 hours of use per year but this can also very greatly by the user and length of season.

  • What maintenance has been performed?

    • Request a detailed maintenance log, including engine hours, oil changes, fuel filter replacements, bottom paint applications, and any major repairs.

  • Have there been any accidents or incidents involving the boat?

    • This includes groundings, collisions, or any other events that could have caused damage.

  • Where was the boat stored?

    • Indoor storage is ideal, while outdoor storage can lead to damage from the elements if not properly covered and winterized.

    • A boat in the NorthEast if stored outside should have been winterized and shrinkwrapped for the winter.

  • Has the boat ever been surveyed?

    • If so, obtain a copy of the survey report.

Sea Trial:

  • Can I take the boat for a sea trial?

    • This is essential to assess the boat's performance and identify any potential problems.

    • Check back to this site for an explanation of what you should look for while doing a sea trial.

6. Documentation:

  • Can you provide the boat's title and registration?

    • Ensure all necessary documentation is in order.

    • Make sure the title is clear of any liens and the boat does not have a salvage title.

7. Negotiation:

  • Be prepared to negotiate the price.

    • Research comparable boats to determine a fair market value.

    • Check out https://www.jdpower.com/boats

8. Buying vs. Joining a Boat Club: Understanding the Differences

  • As interested boaters or soon-to-be boaters explore their boating options, two paths often emerge: owning a boat or joining a boat club. While both avenues offer the opportunity to enjoy the water, they come with distinct benefits and considerations. If you’re interested in learning more about the benefits of joining a boat club without the expense of ownership or limitations of renting then check out www.champlainfleetclub.com.

Important Note: For a more expensive boat it's always recommended to have a qualified marine surveyor inspect the boat before making a purchase. This will provide an independent assessment of the boat's condition and help you make an informed decision.